Group 1 — Here for your skin
Sixteen ingredients chosen for what they do. These are the reason each formula exists: the actives with clinical files behind them, and the botanical oils that replenish what changing skin stops making for itself. Each has its own page.
The Actives
Soline BIO
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
The 2% of sunflower oil that does the interesting work, separated out from the 98% that doesn’t.
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Sweetone Bio
Schisandra Sphenanthera Fruit Extract (and) Maltodextrin
A berry from Traditional Chinese Medicine, harvested wild, working on two things at once: redness and unevenness.
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Alpine Rose Extract
Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
A Swiss alpine flower that survives what should kill it, put to work clearing out the cells that make skin look tired.
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Densorphin
Vitex Agnus Castus Fruit Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Water
The one ingredient we would point to if you asked what makes this a menopause formula rather than an anti-ageing formula with menopause on the box.
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Resurfacid
Water (and) Glycolic Acid (and) Lactic Acid (and) Sodium Magnesium Silicate (and) Citric Acid (and) Xanthan Gum
An acid system that decided the stinging was optional.
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SK-Influx
Ceramide NP (and) Ceramide AP (and) Ceramide EOP (and) Phytosphingosine (and) Cholesterol (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (and) Carbomer (and) Xanthan Gum
Not a ceramide. Five of them, plus cholesterol, plus the fatty acid — assembled in the same layered structure your skin builds naturally.
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mini HA
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic acid, cut down to a size that can actually get somewhere.
The Specialists
Rosehip
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
The oil with the highest linoleic acid content in the blend, and a natural source of vitamin A activity.
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Sea Buckthorn
Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Oil
Three percent, and it colours the entire bottle.
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Tamanu
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Called “sacred oil” across Polynesia, and used for skin repair there for a very long time before anyone published on it.
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Blue Tansy
Tanacetum Annuum (Blue Tansy) Flower Oil
The reason the balm is blue. No colorant, no dye — the plant does it.
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The Barrier Oils
Camellia
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
The only ingredient that appears at high levels in two of our three products. It earned that.
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Moringa
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Pressed from the seeds of a tree that survives drought by being extraordinarily good at holding onto things.
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Argan
Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil
The oil that made Moroccan women’s skin famous long before anyone in a lab could explain why.
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Group 2 — Here for how it works
Eleven ingredients that decide how a product behaves — whether a balm melts on contact or drags, whether an oil sinks in or sits, whether a cleanser rinses clean. Several do real work on skin as well. None of them are filler.
INCI: Behenyl Alcohol
In The Reset — 15%
●○○ Traditional & compositional
A fatty alcohol from plant oils. Despite the name, nothing to do with drying alcohols — this is a waxy solid that gives The Reset its firm structure at room temperature and its glide as it melts. It also conditions skin, so the structure it provides is not inert filler.
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol
Supplier: Gattefossé
In The Catalyst — 4.5%
●●● Clinically studied
The emulsifier that holds The Catalyst together, made by reacting beeswax and jojoba wax with vegetable polyglycerol. It is described as auto-adapting to skin type and climate, laying down an invisible protective film. Gattefossé’s clinical work reports a 43% hydration increase at 30 minutes holding at 40% after 8 hours, plus improvements in radiance, texture fineness and smoothness, and a separate study supporting a microbiome-friendly claim. Unusual for an emulsifier to earn its own paragraph — this one does.
INCI: Lauryl Laurate
Supplier: Koster Keunen
In The Reset — 15%
●○○ Traditional & compositional
A plant-derived ester wax with a melting point at body temperature — solid in the jar, liquid the moment it touches your face. That is the trick that makes a cleansing balm feel like a balm rather than a grease. It leaves a dry, powdery, non-greasy finish rather than the occlusive feel typical of waxes.
INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
Supplier: New Directions Aromatics
In The Reset — 0.44%
●○○ Traditional & compositional
Over 98% long-chain fatty acids, giving it near-legendary oxidative stability — it is often used to extend the shelf life of less stable oils. In The Reset it adds a cushioned slip and helps protect the botanical oils in the balm from going off.
INCI: Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
In The Innovator — 9%
●○○ Traditional & compositional
Around 70% linoleic acid, making it one of the two big linoleic contributors alongside rosehip — and the stable one, since rosehip oxidises readily and cannot carry that load alone. Notably light and fast-absorbing for an oil that rich. Also called maracuja oil.
INCI: Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil
Supplier: New Directions Aromatics
In The Innovator — 0.15%
◇ Formulation function (sensory)
The base note of The Innovator’s scent, and a deliberate sourcing decision: Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) is cultivated and regulated, unlike Indian sandalwood, which is subject to significant conservation pressure. Warm, woody, grounding.
INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
In The Reset — 15%
●●○ Supplier-substantiated
A coconut-derived surfactant, and the reason The Reset rinses clean instead of leaving a film. SCI is the mildest of the widely used cleansing agents — it does not strip the skin barrier the way sulphates do, and it is the standard choice for cleansers aimed at dry or sensitive skin. It is what turns an oil balm into a genuine one-step cleanse.
INCI: Vegetable Oil
Supplier: Sonneborn
The Reset — 21.56%
●●○ Supplier-substantiated
The largest single component of The Reset. Sonneborn’s SonneNatural line is a range of 100% plant-derived emollients developed as high-purity alternatives to petrolatum, mineral oil and cyclic silicones — delivering comparable occlusive protection and low transepidermal water loss from a vegetable rather than petroleum source. In a cleansing balm, it does the bulk of the dissolving.
INCI: Curcuma Longa Root Oil
Supplier: New Directions Aromatics
In The Innovator — 0.05%
●○○ Traditional & compositional
Present at five-hundredths of one percent — a trace, and deliberately so. Turmeric is a potent staining material; at this level it contributes its traditional antioxidant and calming character without any colour transfer risk.
INCI: Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil
Supplier: New Directions Aromatics
In The Innovator — 0.15%
◇ Formulation function (sensory)
Real vanilla, ten-fold concentrated — an oleoresin from the cured bean, not vanillin. It rounds the herbaceous edge of the tamanu and sea buckthorn and gives The Innovator its warmth.
INCI: Tocopherol
Supplier: New Directions Aromatics
In The Innovator — 1%
●●○ Supplier-substantiated
Full-spectrum means all four tocopherol isomers, not just the alpha form most products use — a broader antioxidant profile closer to what occurs in nature. It does two jobs at once: an antioxidant on skin, and the thing that keeps 16 botanical oils, several of them fragile, from oxidizing in the bottle.
Group 3 — Here to keep it safe and stable
Twelve ingredients doing the structural work: holding an emulsion together, keeping the pH where your skin wants it, protecting a water-based product from bacteria. Nobody puts these on the front of a box. We're listing them anyway, because a formula you can't see all of isn't really transparent.
| Ingredient | INCI | In | What it does |
|---|---|---|---|
| Deionized Water | Water | The Catalyst · 63.75% | Purified water. The base of any cream or lotion and the medium the water-soluble actives are delivered in. |
| Eumulgin SG | Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate | The Catalyst · 0.5% | Amino-acid-derived co-emulsifier from BASF. Helps hold the oil and water phases together; exceptionally mild. |
| Lavender 40/42 (Nature Identical) | Lavandula Officinalis Flower Oil | The Innovator · 0.15% | Fragrance note. “Nature identical” means it is composed to match natural lavender’s profile with consistent, phthalate-free composition batch to batch. |
| Lipocol C | Cetyl Alcohol | The Catalyst · 0.5% | A fatty alcohol — a waxy solid, not a drying alcohol. Thickens and stabilises the emulsion and softens skin. |
| Liponate CCC | Coco Caprylate/Caprate | The Catalyst · 4% | Coconut-derived light emollient. Gives the serum its dry, silky slip without silicone. |
| Liponate GC | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | The Catalyst · 8% | Fractionated coconut oil. A stable, lightweight carrier oil, and the vehicle that carries oil-soluble actives. |
| NaOH (18%) | Water (and) Sodium Hydroxide | The Catalyst · 1.15% | pH adjuster. Buffers the AHA system to a skin-friendly finished pH of 5.0–5.3. Fully neutralised in the finished product. |
| Phenoxyethanol | Phenoxyethanol | The Catalyst · 1% | Preservative. Protects a water-containing product from bacterial and fungal growth. Used at 1%, the standard safe maximum. |
| Propanediol 1,3 | Propanediol | The Catalyst · 3% | Plant-derived humectant and solvent. Draws water into skin and helps dissolve actives; a renewable alternative to propylene glycol. |
| Softisan | Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride | The Reset · 13% | A vegan alternative to lanolin from IOI Oleo. Forms a protective, water-resistant film; supplier tewameter data shows improved barrier performance and reduced water loss. |
| Solagum AX | Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum | The Catalyst · 0.6% | Seppic’s natural thickener — acacia gum coated onto xanthan gum. Gives The Catalyst its body without the stringy, sticky feel xanthan alone produces. COSMOS and ECOCERT certified. |
| Spectrastat PHL | Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Propanediol | The Catalyst · 3% The Reset · 2% |
Inolex’s alternative preservation system. No parabens, no formaldehyde donors, no isothiazolinones — it works by “hurdle technology,” combining mild multifunctional ingredients into an environment microbes cannot establish in. 66% USDA-certified biobased. |
